Chasing that warm, character-packed “exposed brick” vibe? You’re not alone. The two most popular routes are brick effect tiles and traditional brick (including full bricks or real brick slips). Both give you texture and personality. The catch: they behave very differently once you start installing, cleaning, and living with them.
This guide cuts through the noise with clear pros, cons, and decision criteria. If you want zero fluff and a confident choice by the end, you’re in the right place.
We’ll break down aesthetics, cost, installation, durability, weight, thermal feel, maintenance, sustainability, and typical indoor/outdoor use cases plus a quick buyer’s checklist and two mini-install guides.
Renting or on plasterboard? Go brick effect tiles lighter weight, faster install, less mess.
Restoring a period property or doing a façade? Go traditional brick/brick slips for authenticity, tactile depth, and long-term patina.
Bathrooms/kitchens with splashes? High-quality porcelain brick tiles thrive.
Outdoor façade or garden wall? Traditional brick/brick slips usually win for realism and breathability (installed correctly).
Brick effect tiles are ceramic or porcelain tiles manufactured to mimic the look of brick texture, tone variation, even chipped edges.
Porcelain is denser, less porous, and highly durable great for wet areas, heavy traffic, and floors (if rated).
Ceramic can be lighter and slightly easier to cut great for walls and budget-friendly projects.
You’ll find “brick slips” dimensions (e.g., roughly 65 75 mm in height) as well as subway sizes and elongated planks.
Pressed edges = cleaner lines and easier alignment.
Extruded/handmade-style edges = irregular, rustic joints that look more like real brick.
Glazed: easier cleaning, slightly shinier (choose satin/matte glaze to keep it realistic).
Unglazed/matte: more authentic visuals, but pick stains and sealers wisely.
3D textures: catch light like real brick and mask minor grout inconsistencies.
Traditional brick refers to fired clay bricks laid with mortar. For interiors, many people use real brick slips thin cuts of real bricks so you get genuine brick faces without full thickness.
Full bricks: structural or non-structural walls; maximum authenticity and mass.
Real brick slips: the visible face of a real brick, installed on tracks/adhesive with pointing mortar; much lighter than full bricks but still “real brick.”
Manufactured veneers: cement-based or resin products shaped and colored to mimic brick; lighter than full brick but not always as durable as porcelain.
Brick slips are real brick slices. Tiles are ceramic/porcelain imitations. Slips are pointed with mortar, tiles are grouted; the look and joint depth differ, with slips offering deeper, shadowed joints.
Exterior façades, garden walls, and period homes anywhere the tactile depth, weathering, and longevity of real brick are paramount.
Absolutely if you choose well. The trick is variation and texture.
Real brick has irregularities. Choose tiles with surface relief and mixed faces per box. Keep joints around 8–12 mm for a brick-like rhythm (check the tile’s spec). Too-tight joints can look “tile-ish.”
Running bond is timeless and forgiving.
Herringbone adds movement—great for feature walls.
Stack bond feels modern but highlights any unevenness, so prep must be perfect.
Real bricks develop patina—subtle lightening, micro-chips, lime wash, and soot marks—that scream authenticity. Tiles won’t “age” the same way, but good ones use multi-print faces and texture to fake it convincingly.
Here’s where the two approaches diverge hard.
Tiles demand flat walls and proper priming; in wet zones, use a waterproofing membrane.
Brick/brick slips tolerate minor irregularities but still benefit from flat substrates; for exteriors, allow for drainage and breathability.
Tiles are set with thin-bed adhesive and grouted.
Brick slips are bonded with adhesive or on a rail/track, then pointed with mortar messier but ultra-authentic.
Tiles: DIY-able with patience. Pitfalls: poor leveling, wrong trowel notch, and rushing grout.
Brick slips: heavier, dusty, and slower; pitfalls: inconsistent joint widths, weak bonding on dusty walls, and sloppy pointing.
Tiles often finish faster especially indoors. Brick slips take longer due to pointing and cleanup.
Costs vary widely by region, spec, and installer. Think in buckets rather than exact numbers:
Material: High-end porcelain tiles can approach or exceed brick slips; value ceramics are cheaper. Real handmade bricks/slips cost more than mass-produced alternatives.
Labour: Tiling is usually quicker (cheaper labour). Brick/brick slips need slower, craft-based pointing.
Prep & extras: Waterproofing for wet areas (tiles), breathable build-ups and weeps for exterior brick.
Ways to reduce cost:
Choose value porcelain/ceramic with multiple faces and matte texture.
Use larger formats or modular sizes to cut labour time.
For brick slips, consider pre-formed corner pieces only where visible; square-cut returns elsewhere.
Weight matters on plasterboard and older substrates.
Brick effect tiles (porcelain): heavier than ceramic but generally within limits for properly fixed plasterboard or masonry walls (check board and adhesive weight ratings).
Brick slips: heavier than tiles; ensure substrate and fixings are rated.
Full bricks: structural or thick veneer build-ups require appropriate support consult a pro for loads and lintels.
If you’re going over paint or old plaster, test adhesion, remove flaky areas, and consider backer boards.
Both solutions can last decades if installed correctly.
Porcelain tiles: excellent scratch/abrasion resistance great for busy homes.
Real brick/brick slips: tough but edges can chip; many see this as added character.
Porcelain: low water absorption; reliable in wet zones and freeze thaw.
Real brick: breathable but must be detailed to handle moisture; efflorescence (salts) can appear usually cosmetic and treatable.
Porcelain colour is incredibly stable. Real brick colourfastness varies by clay/firing; most age gracefully, developing that coveted patina.
Ceramic/porcelain and clay brick are non-combustible. Adhesives, membranes, and insulation layers must also meet the required ratings always verify the whole system, not just the face finish.
Real brick (full or slips) has greater thermal mass, smoothing temperature swings. Tiles are thinner and hold less heat, but over underfloor heating they respond fast and efficiently.
Both surfaces reflect sound; brick’s deeper texture and joints can break up echoes a touch more than smooth tiles. For echo-y rooms, add soft furnishings or acoustic panels don’t rely on the wall finish alone.
Porcelain tiles: often no sealer needed; clean with neutral cleaners. Cementitious grout may need occasional refresh or a stain-resistant upgrade (epoxy/hybrid).
Real brick/brick slips: may benefit from a breathable sealer (test first). Joints may need re-pointing over very long horizons, especially outside.
Choose grout width and colour intentionally. Slightly wider joints with a sandy texture look more “brick-like.” Use stain-resistant grout in kitchens and splash zones.
Porcelain brick tiles are rock-solid in showers, splashbacks, and behind cookers (with heat-rated adhesive). Texture helps hide water spots and fingerprints.
Traditional brick or brick slips (with the right external-grade system) deliver unmatched realism and longevity. Ensure drainage paths, weep details, and breathable layers where required.
Fired clay and porcelain both involve kilns. The big sustainability wins often come from:
Longevity (install once, keep for decades)
Local sourcing (lower transport)
Using recycled content (available in some tiles)
Designing for repair (replace a tile or re-point a joint, not the whole wall)
Salvaged real brick (or slips cut from salvaged stock) offers charisma and reduces new material demand—just verify consistency, thickness, and contamination.
Warm reds & terracottas = industrial loft.
Soft greys & chalky whites = Scandi calm.
Mixed blends create a reclaimed feel.
Aim for 8-12 mm joints for brick realism; use a sandy, mortar-like grout with a slight recess for shadow.
Grazing light—from wall washers or floor uplights—emphasizes texture. Dimmer controls let you shift from “daylight crisp” to “evening cozy” in seconds.
Answer these quickly don’t overthink:
Rushing substrate prep – uneven walls make patterns wander.
Wrong adhesive or trowel – leads to poor bond and lippage.
Tiny grout joints – screams “tile,” not “brick.”
Skipping movement joints – invites cracks.
Using non-breathable sealers on real brick outside – can trap moisture.
Plan the layout: find your centre line and test a row.
Prep: clean, prime, waterproof (if wet area).
Trowel: use the notch size recommended for tile size; back-butter large/3D tiles.
Set: rack in your pattern with spacers to hold joint width.
Check: use a straightedge and level; correct lippage as you go.
Grout: after cure, use a sandy, mortar-tone grout; consider slight recess.
Clean: do an initial wash, then a final polish once cured.
Mark out: snap lines for even courses; keep eye on corners.
Fix: apply brick slip adhesive or mount carrier rails per system spec.
Set: maintain consistent joint widths.
Point: pack joints with pointing mortar; tool to a slight recess for shadow.
Cure & clean: gentle brush after initial set; avoid smearing fines into pores.
Seal (if appropriate): choose breathable sealers for interior areas prone to staining.
If you value speed, cleanliness, and wet-area performance, brick effect porcelain tiles are the smart play. If your heart is set on tactile authenticity, deep joints, and graceful aging especially outdoors traditional brick or real brick slips will reward you for decades. Match the material to the location, your timeline, and the maintenance you’re willing to do. Make a swift choice and get it on the wall every day you wait is one less day you get to enjoy the look you love.
1) Are brick effect tiles suitable for floors?
Yes if the tile is floor-rated (check the manufacturer’s spec). Porcelain is a safer bet for abrasion resistance.
2) Can I use brick slips in a shower?
It’s possible with the right system and careful detailing, but porcelain brick tiles are usually more practical in continuously wet zones.
3) Do I need to seal brick effect tiles?
Most porcelain tiles don’t need sealing; some ceramics and grouts benefit from a sealer. Always check the product data.
4) Will real brick make my room warmer?
Not warmer, but more stable brick has thermal mass that smooths temperature swings. For quick warmth, underfloor heating under tiles is excellent.
5) Can I put brick or tiles directly over paint?
Only if the paint is sound and well-bonded do adhesion tests, de-gloss, and prime. When in doubt, strip back to a suitable substrate or add a rated backer board.
