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Pointing Mortar for Brick Slips, The Essential Finishing Element

When it comes to installing brick slips, pointing mortar is more than just the material that fills the gaps, it’s the final touch that brings the entire project to life. Pointing mortar for brick slips isn’t merely aesthetic; it plays a key role in ensuring the brick slip cladding stays weatherproof, secure, and durable over time.

Unlike full-size bricks, brick slips are thin slices of real brick or manufactured cladding designed to give the appearance of traditional brickwork without the bulk. But just like traditional bricks, without proper pointing, brick slips are left vulnerable to moisture ingress, cracking, and unsightly deterioration.

 

Why Pointing Mortar Matters for Brick Slip Installations

If you’ve ever seen a poorly pointed brick slip wall, you’ll know it instantly. The pointing is what gives a brick slip wall that authentic brickwork finish. Get the pointing wrong, and even the highest quality brick slips will look amateurish.

But it’s not just about appearances. Pointing mortar forms a crucial seal between the slips. Without it, water can penetrate behind the slips, potentially leading to failures in adhesion, frost damage, and, in worst cases, structural issues. This is especially important for external brick slip installations exposed to the British weather.

How Pointing Mortar Differs for Brick Slips vs. Traditional Brickwork

While traditional brick pointing often involves filling deeper cavities, brick slip pointing usually deals with joints around 10-15mm deep, depending on the brick slip system in use. The pointing mortar needs to be smooth enough to work easily with a mortar gun but sticky enough to stay in place without slumping out of the joints.

The appearance is also front and centre for brick slips. Unlike full brickwork where the depth of the mortar joint is less visible, with brick slips, the mortar lines are part of the visual illusion that creates the look of real brickwork. Consistent colour, texture, and finish are absolutely critical.

Choosing the Right Pointing Mortar for Brick Slips

Not every mortar is suitable for pointing brick slips. Standard sand and cement mixes used in blockwork are often too coarse or dry for the thin joints between slips. That’s why most professionals opt for pre-mixed pointing mortar specifically designed for brick slips, which provides:

  • Smooth consistency for easy application

  • Excellent adhesion to the slips and backing surface

  • Resistance to cracking, shrinkage, and water ingress

Pre-bagged brick slip pointing mortar is often available in a range of colours from traditional sand shades to charcoal, grey, white, or even bespoke colours helping create a seamless match with the chosen slips.

How to Mix Pointing Mortar for Brick Slips

If you’re not using a ready-mixed product, the typical ratio for a cement-based pointing mortar suitable for brick slips is around 1 part cement to 4-5 parts fine sand, sometimes with a splash of plasticiser to improve workability.

The key is consistency. For brick slip work, the mortar needs to be smooth, slightly creamy, but not runny. Too dry, and it will crumble or block the mortar gun; too wet, and it will slump out of the joints. Think of it like thick cake frosting firm but pliable.

Application: How Pointing Mortar Is Used for Brick Slips

The process starts after the brick slips are fully adhered to the wall and the adhesive has cured. Unlike traditional bricklaying where bricks are laid into wet mortar, brick slips are fitted first, then the mortar is added into the joints afterwards.

The most common way to apply pointing mortar for brick slips is using a mortar pointing gun. This tool allows for fast, clean delivery of mortar directly into the horizontal (bed) and vertical (perp) joints without mess. The mortar is squeezed into the joints, slightly overfilled, and then left to firm up.

Once the mortar begins to set firm but still workable it’s tooled using a jointing tool, producing the chosen finish, whether that’s flush, recessed, or a weather-struck profile. This step not only enhances the look but compacts the mortar, increasing durability and water resistance.

Popular Mortar Joint Finishes for Brick Slips

The choice of joint style can dramatically change the look of a brick slip wall. Some of the most common finishes include:

  • Flush Joint: The mortar is level with the face of the brick slips, offering a clean, modern look.

  • Recessed Joint: The mortar sits slightly back from the brick surface, creating shadow lines that highlight the individual bricks.

  • Weather-Struck Joint: Angled to shed water away from the wall, combining practicality with a sharp appearance.

  • Bucket Handle Joint: A smooth, concave finish often seen on modern homes.

How Long Does Pointing Mortar Take to Dry on Brick Slips?

Drying time can vary depending on weather, but typically, brick slip pointing mortar begins to firm within 1-2 hours and cures over the next 24-48 hours. In colder, wetter conditions, this process may take longer. For lime-based mortars, full curing can take weeks.

Protecting the fresh pointing from rain, frost, or direct sun is crucial during the curing period to avoid staining, cracking, or weakening of the joint.

Common Issues with Brick Slip Pointing Mortar (And How to Avoid Them)

Some typical problems include:

  • Mortar Slump: Usually from a mix that’s too wet.

  • Cracking: Caused by overly dry mixes or pointing in high heat without moisture control.

  • Colour Variation: If mortar is mixed inconsistently or dries at different rates due to weather exposure.

  • Debonding: Happens if the joints weren’t properly cleaned of dust before pointing.

The solution to most of these problems is good preparation: the right mortar, the right consistency, and appropriate weather protection.

Is Brick Slip Pointing Mortar Waterproof?

While pointing mortar for brick slips is water-resistant, it is not fully waterproof. Its primary job is to shed rainwater away from the joints and prevent water ingress behind the slips. High-quality pointing mortar, especially when properly compacted and finished, will resist the worst of British weather. However, it still allows minor breathability, which prevents moisture buildup behind the surface.

Best Practices for Pointing Brick Slips

  • Always ensure the adhesive is fully cured before starting pointing.

  • Keep the surface dust-free and lightly misted to help the mortar bond.

  • Use a pointing gun for speed and a clean finish.

  • Don’t rush the tooling stage, wait until the mortar is firm but still workable.

  • Protect your work from rain, frost, and direct sun until fully cured.

Pointing mortar for brick slips isn’t just the final step, it’s the finishing touch that transforms brick slips into a realistic, durable, and weatherproof brick façade. Whether you’re cladding a feature wall indoors or finishing an entire building exterior, the choice and application of your mortar are just as important as the slips themselves.

With the right mortar, the correct technique, and a little patience, your brick slip wall will not only look fantastic but will stand the test of time, resisting the elements while maintaining that authentic brickwork charm.


FAQs About Brick Slip Pointing Mortar

1. Can I use regular cement mortar for brick slips?

It’s not recommended. Standard sand and cement mixes are too coarse. Use mortar specifically formulated for brick slips to ensure proper adhesion and a clean finish.

2. How deep should pointing mortar be for brick slips?

Typically around 10-15mm deep, depending on the brick slip thickness and system used.

3. How long does it take brick slip pointing mortar to dry?

Initial firming within 1-2 hours; full cure usually within 24-48 hours. Lime mortars take longer.

4. Is pointing mortar waterproof for exterior brick slips?

It is water-resistant, designed to shed rain and protect the wall, but still allows breathability to prevent moisture trapping.

5. Can I point brick slips in winter?

Yes, but avoid frost. Use weather protection like sheeting or temporary covers to prevent damage from rain or freezing temperatures during curing.

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